I am constantly trying to find a home away from home,
away from home. I’m constantly trying to run away to somewhere comfy, like
Goldilocks trying to work out which is the comfiest bed to sleep in. Berlin has
become that place.
I have been coming to Berlin since 2008; it is my almost
twice-yearly pattern. I came here for three months and wrote the first
(terrible!) draft of my PhD thesis here, and over the years I have built up a
small but wondrous group of friends.
I grew up in Malaysia, New Zealand, and now London is my
home and soon to be the place I have lived the longest. At my heart, I am a
homebody, a homebody with itchy feet and a need for adventure. And so I calm
both urges by visiting Berlin. Berlin is familiar, and yet changes, develops
and grows, but hasn’t lost its soul. And so, this is a round up of what my most
recent trip looked like, in food and drink, I have a few my favourites, which are
asterisked. I stayed most of the time at my friend Sarah’s in Neukolln, which I
admit is my favourite neighbourhood.
Sunday
A night Michelberger Hotel on Warschauer Straße. A beautiful, well designed place. I was late with a deadline so sat in the café, with great coffee and a glass of wine and finished it off. Dinner at their restaurant was delicious, and I ate a lot - €56, including a few glasses of wine. Loved it, all of it!
A night Michelberger Hotel on Warschauer Straße. A beautiful, well designed place. I was late with a deadline so sat in the café, with great coffee and a glass of wine and finished it off. Dinner at their restaurant was delicious, and I ate a lot - €56, including a few glasses of wine. Loved it, all of it!
Monday
Monkey bar, a top the
25hour hotel. Go at sunset, see the view, this Berlin glamour (but because it’s
Berlin it’s still relaxed). Avoid the weekends. I went with the cool kids Sarah
and Rachel – these Berlin ladies are amazing and along with Natalie, are why I
keep coming back.
Neni is
the restaurant half of the floor. I hated the design of the menu, I couldn’t
work out how to order from it. Luckily, my patient friend Adrian understood -
it’s basically family style eating. It’s the sort of place were the service was
on point, food is delicious and the wine list is small and good, that you just
relax – e.g. no food photos taken, too busy having a great time! The pricing
was also pretty good for the quality and amount - €88 for two, including a bottle
of Mosel Riesling.
Tuesday
Early morning stroll for a great cortador at Espera on
Sonnenalle, with a thick slice of banana bread that had mighty chunks of
chocolate.
Wednesday
Quick coffee at Bully’s on
Weserstrabe. I wrote so much of that first draft of my PhD here, it’s an
obligatory stop by. It seems they’ve stopped making their flamkuchen, sadly, but
their cakes are great.
Thursday
Café 2 by 2 –
a French café with Japanese twist. Lovely coffee, great little pastries. I had
the most gorgeous melt-in-your-mouth pastry on a mini quiche.
Berlin has such a great attitude for pushing at boundaries
and has a such a great creative, and youthful crowd that I felt like it would
be really fun to try a new Berlin one star. Richard was
classic cooking, mainly faultless, completely unmemorable. It was white table
clothes and sweet service. I was so
disappointed. It didn’t respond to it’s environment. It could have been
anywhere in the world – and yet, it was in East Berlin, on the Spree where
there are big night clubs and parties on the ‘beach’ in summer. It lacked all
that vivaciousness that Berlin can offer.
Friday
Quick breakfast on the go of Espero coffee and
Croissant from Crossitele on Pannierstraße, they have
every croissant that you could dream up. I had two, buttery goodness.
Best night out in ages. The Weserstrasse bar wander.
Firstly, start at Vin
Aqua Vin. It’s as grown up as you can be in Neukolln, the
selection is fantastic. The two others beside are also super cute.
Then dinner at Beuster. Aim for about
8.30pm (you can also book if you’re organised) We sat at the bar, the bartender
was brilliant – super smiley, really fun. The menu is simple, but good, gastro
pub vibe, with classic Berlin bar feel. You could stay there all night…
Next, walk out left along Weserstrasse, to is a little
steamed up window, with a door. It has no name, but it does have a mural of the
Battersea powerstation on the wall. Go in!
Then TheLonious
– a cocktail bar. This is new, it’s Neukolln being fancy, and it’s nice. As the
night is nearing a close, a quick nightcap at Kuschlowski. It’s like someone’s front living room with a feeling
anything can happen – this is what I think of, when I think of Berlin.
Saturday
*Lokal, in Mitte, if I had a restaurant this would be it. The design is beautiful, simple and warm. The service is charming and oh, so knowledgeable. The food is hearty, but clever. And, all the wines by the glass. I love wine, and trying as much as possible of ones I don’t know. This is particularly important with German wine, as the labels don’t give much away to the non-German speaker– so this wine list structure was my heaven.
*Lokal, in Mitte, if I had a restaurant this would be it. The design is beautiful, simple and warm. The service is charming and oh, so knowledgeable. The food is hearty, but clever. And, all the wines by the glass. I love wine, and trying as much as possible of ones I don’t know. This is particularly important with German wine, as the labels don’t give much away to the non-German speaker– so this wine list structure was my heaven.
A neighbourhood restaurant that you would travel the
city for; or in my case, travel the continent for. I have found my home away
from home. I could wax lyrical – but just go and see for yourself. Do book.
€112 for two.
*Romers for
breakfast. Get there at opening (10am), people line up. This places is so cute,
and the food is fantastic, with the likes of great bread, homemade hummus,
wonderful salmon; beautiful produce cooked and seasoned perfectly. I had major
food envy over French toast I saw another table order - so that will have to be
next time.
The staff are super, they are working non-stop from
open to close and yet, every time I popped in there, for my lunch, passing
coffees, to this Sunday morning breakfast – smiles and cheerfulness!
Wish I had
made, but ran out of time, or didn’t book in time!
Soupe Poplulair – he has other, michlein star places,
I would like to have tried is other restaurants too.
Pauly Saal - for lunch, in the courtyard!
And the little cafe in the same building beside Pauly Saal
And the little cafe in the same building beside Pauly Saal
Industry Standard
Codobar – Wine bar in Mitte
Codobar – Wine bar in Mitte
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