Skip to main content

NOVEMBER 2014: Som Saa - Climpson's Arch

Food is best enjoyed when eaten with your hands. Sauce sucked off finger tips, feeling your way around the textures of the food, mopping up jus, being at one with it all. Therefore I introduce to you – Som Saa's prawns. Packed with salt and chilli they are a revelation in flavour. Well, maybe that's over the top, the combination of salt and chilli is hardly new, but, they are covered and coated in both, and yet not over powering the prawn-y-ness. Prawns are only ever meant to be eaten with your hands, and Som Saa's prawn's soft flesh pops out of the shell, squishy and firm, in equal measures, between your fingers. Dip in sauce, pop in mouth, tongue tries to cover every surface so as not to miss a morsal of taste, lick fingers for salt and chilli. In the words of Heather “fuck me gently with a chainsaw”, it's so good. 


I'm Malaysian, so I will eat rice with my hands, use it to mop up sauce, pick up meat and vegetables to create a mouthful of food. Rice can be used as edible utensils, when executed correctly. And I sorely wanted to do that with the gorgeous (endless) sticky rice. But I restrained. Not sure East London was ready for me to go that East.  

We started with cocktails. Deliciously put together with asian ingredients. And then a couple of glasses of Riesling. I love a Riesling, and with spicy, asian food I couldn't think of anything better. They are also sourcing special wines that aren't usually sold by the glass, that they have personally matched with the food. Great idea, a bit sad, due to delivery issues, it wasn't available that night, but – I'll be back! What I also enjoy about the drinks list was that it was small. A small menu (drinks or food) feels thoughtful, matched to what we should be experiencing – it makes the evening feel curated. I like choice, but sometimes I just like to do told what to do, it makes the evening feel controlled, a journey, an event. Som Saa balanced this nicely. A small food and drinks menu, and an easy atmosphere, so that I could marvel at the food, but not spend too long umm-ing and ahhh-ing and could actually catch up with my friend (in between the moments of “oh my fuck – that is delicious”, of course).

We also devoured a pork stew, and gorgeous aubergine with soft boiled egg, and chicken wings. More finger food, of sticky deliciousness. I couldn't fault anything, except maybe the fact that two portions of rice I ate was probably too much – I just couldn't stop.   

The big question – after Climpson Arch, where will they go next!? Don't leave me...

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

Understanding Malaysia: part one of ?

‘The (Malay)Asian Friend’ I think this will be a series of essays, a disgruntled thread that may take a lifetime to untangle. The continued misunderstanding of a complex nation, where borders and boundaries come from flux, where the jungle makes lines in the earth an impossibility and yet politics, nationalism, colonial lens and the exotic touristic eye compete to limit and define a nation built on migration and the movement of people. (and I realise that this could refer to not just Malaysia!) My original gripe comes from the limitation of how Malaysia food, and therefore Malaysians, gets represented in London. I write in my book (out in a year’s time) that we are boiled down to a few dishes - “roti canai, beef rendang, nasi lemak, nasi goreng, maybe sambal, and now laksa.” The request for these dishes is like a checklist of if a restaurant is ‘authentically’ Malaysia, or someone is authentically Malaysian if they know/like/eat them.  You don’t crave nasi lemak, are you really Mal...

Bodies broken into boxes

The launch of Sourced's new season on Trees had me thinking a lot about landscape, and the systems of landscape, and how us humans are part of that systems.   I have a lot of feels, after so much reading I do, that doesn’t always allow for concise ‘academic’ or ‘journalistic’ writing - there is no argument to be made. When I think of landscapes, I often think of trees, of the jungle. And this thinking is always a visceral one, the feeling of a landscape on my skin, in my bones, and translation down generations.   I’m interested in how colonialists saw these ‘new world’ landscapes; there were ‘Enlightened’ thinkers who deeply thought about the environment, but saw the environment as an influence on the people as opposed to a conversation - the landscape was a un-thing; oppressive even. The environment was a way to justify a hierarchy of race, and from there racial definitions became ways to legitimise slavery, exploitation… our beloved environment was a reason to subjugate. So ...

JANUARY 2015: nostalgia and the here and now of London (and riesling)

I got a little annoyed with January and everyone wanting to have a ‘dry January’. I had worked all through December and I wanted to have fun for the beginning of the year. Luckily I had a few trusted friends who were equally unimpressed with the dry Jan concept. But of course, everyone was broke (including myself) so I decided that it was going to be a month of drinking good wine at home.   That’s the thing with London, there is always something good to do, there is always somewhere great to be; it’s a tricky city to be in, when broke. And January is such a sad month, that you want to brighten it up with fun, but you don’t have the money to do so. When I went back to uni to do my PhD I used up all my savings and really didn’t have time to pick up extra work, so even though I graduated six months ago, I’m still playing catch up and living pay check to pay check. Therefore despite the December work slog, I was back to being broke by January. And I know that I’m not alone in this...